car brake (rear)

[kurtis469]

ive looked for a couple days not ( google it does not always work lol )

so i came here anyone know where i can find some info on how to do rear drum brakes...front ones i know rear are the tricky ones i heard

car info 95 honda del sol non abs if anyone can help great

pictures are appriciated

thanx in advance

[beanz]

step 1. Go to Wal*Mart
Step 2. Find A Chilton's car manual
Step 3. Buy Book
Step 4.Smoke a joint
Step 6.Fix rear drum brakes :)
Step 7. have fun using your brakes..lol

[kurtis469]

step 1. Go to Wal*Mart
Step 2. Find A Chilton's car manual
Step 3. rip the pages out of the Book***
Step 4.Smoke a joint and blunt***
Step 6.Fix rear drum brakes :)
Step 7. have fun using your brakes..lol



edit*

[beanz]

i like that much better!

[Furyous]

Kurtis,
Drums are really pretty simple. First off how many miles does the car have on it, and how bad were the brakes when you took it off the road? Were they making some osrt of noise? If high mileage, do you know if the brakes have ever been replaced? All important questions, because you may need to take the drums down to a brake shop and have them turned depending on your answers.
First off, break the lug nuts loose.
Second, jack the car up so the wheels are barely making contact with the ground. This will make the removal of the lug nuts a little easier (The wheels won't spin on you). You never want to loosen the lug nuts too much while the full weight of the vehicle is on the ground.
Third, pull the wheel off. Do one side at a time in case you need to use the other side for reference when putting the brakes back together.
The drums should be able to be "Shaken Loose" jiggle it back and forth while pulling on it. (Be careful not to position yourself directly in front of a stubbor drum, or you may take a shot to the face!)
Fourth, (This is where a manual might come in handy) Look at the brake shoes to see if they are worn down. These should be replaced when the lining is below the manufacturer's specifications. If they need to be replaced, remove the brake shoe return springs. Then, remove the hold-down springs and pins. The entire assembly should come off at this point. This will include the springs, the star wheel(The star wheel looks like a gear and is mounted on a threaded adjuster that looks like a bolt in between the two shoes. You will know what I'm talking about as soon as you see it) and both shoes. The rear shoe will still be attached to the parking brake cable. Use a screwdriver to remove this cable. Clean the star wheel, which keeps the brake shoes adjusted and re-lubricate it. You can also clean the drum with hot soapy water.

Fifth, Now do all of that in reverse, adjust the brakes with the star wheel for the last step. Put the drum back on the car. Take a brake spoon (Specialty tool), of I prefer a screw driver, because that's what I've got and I can be ghetto sometimes, locate the hole on the back where the star wheel can be accessed, and turn the wheel until the pads just make contact with the drum. This is best determined by spinning the wheel assembly and adjusting. you will feel and hear it when the pads begin to make contact with the drum.

REMEMBER, ALWAYS keep grease off from the inside of the drum, and the shoe surface that will be in contact with the drum. If you get grease on the inside of the drum, clean it with brake cleaner, and wait for it to dry. Brake cleaner is highly evaporative, so it shouldn't take long. The brake shoes should NEVER be sprayed with brake cleaner. It is very powerful stuff, and can destroy the fiberous material that the pads/shoes are made out of. Clean brakes pads/shoes with sand paper!

Well, that about does it. I'd say get the manual, because this way you are working blind. A chiltons manual should have pictures to guide you along the way, and will be specific to your vehicle. Also, remember, if there is ONE thing you don't want to fail on your vehicle, it's your brakes. If you are at all uncertain about your abilities, it might just save your life to just take it to a shop and have it done there. I've done countless brake jobs and never had any problems, but I also had a lot of help from old mechanics along the way, and never did it without some guidance until I really knew what I was doing!
Good luck, and have fun! I mean that, I enjoy working on cars. You always get a real sense of satisfaction and accomplishment when you FINALLY get done with that "damned stupid job you never should have taken on in the first place!":)

Let me know if you have any more questions, and I'll do my best to answer them for you.

[kurtis469]

Kurtis,
Drums are really pretty simple. First off how many miles does the car have on it, and how bad were the brakes when you took it off the road? Were they making some osrt of noise? If high mileage, do you know if the brakes have ever been replaced? All important questions, because you may need to take the drums down to a brake shop and have them turned depending on your answers.
First off, break the lug nuts loose.
Second, jack the car up so the wheels are barely making contact with the ground. This will make the removal of the lug nuts a little easier (The wheels won't spin on you). You never want to loosen the lug nuts too much while the full weight of the vehicle is on the ground.
Third, pull the wheel off. Do one side at a time in case you need to use the other side for reference when putting the brakes back together.
The drums should be able to be "Shaken Loose" jiggle it back and forth while pulling on it. (Be careful not to position yourself directly in front of a stubbor drum, or you may take a shot to the face!)
Fourth, (This is where a manual might come in handy) Look at the brake shoes to see if they are worn down. These should be replaced when the lining is below the manufacturer's specifications. If they need to be replaced, remove the brake shoe return springs. Then, remove the hold-down springs and pins. The entire assembly should come off at this point. This will include the springs, the star wheel(The star wheel looks like a gear and is mounted on a threaded adjuster that looks like a bolt in between the two shoes. You will know what I'm talking about as soon as you see it) and both shoes. The rear shoe will still be attached to the parking brake cable. Use a screwdriver to remove this cable. Clean the star wheel, which keeps the brake shoes adjusted and re-lubricate it. You can also clean the drum with hot soapy water.

Fifth, Now do all of that in reverse, adjust the brakes with the star wheel for the last step. Put the drum back on the car. Take a brake spoon (Specialty tool), of I prefer a screw driver, because that's what I've got and I can be ghetto sometimes, locate the hole on the back where the star wheel can be accessed, and turn the wheel until the pads just make contact with the drum. This is best determined by spinning the wheel assembly and adjusting. you will feel and hear it when the pads begin to make contact with the drum.

REMEMBER, ALWAYS keep grease off from the inside of the drum, and the shoe surface that will be in contact with the drum. If you get grease on the inside of the drum, clean it with brake cleaner, and wait for it to dry. Brake cleaner is highly evaporative, so it shouldn't take long. The brake shoes should NEVER be sprayed with brake cleaner. It is very powerful stuff, and can destroy the fiberous material that the pads/shoes are made out of. Clean brakes pads/shoes with sand paper!

Well, that about does it. I'd say get the manual, because this way you are working blind. A chiltons manual should have pictures to guide you along the way, and will be specific to your vehicle. Also, remember, if there is ONE thing you don't want to fail on your vehicle, it's your brakes. If you are at all uncertain about your abilities, it might just save your life to just take it to a shop and have it done there. I've done countless brake jobs and never had any problems, but I also had a lot of help from old mechanics along the way, and never did it without some guidance until I really knew what I was doing!
Good luck, and have fun! I mean that, I enjoy working on cars. You always get a real sense of satisfaction and accomplishment when you FINALLY get done with that "damned stupid job you never should have taken on in the first place!":)

Let me know if you have any more questions, and I'll do my best to answer them for you.



wow u know your brake thanx man but the car has close to 170k(miles) on it
i dont know if they have been done......no noise really except the ocationall grinding when i first start my car and roll down my drive way backwards...but if they have never been done ill prolly have fun ( yea right )

[Furyous]

With 170K on the car I'm positive they've been done before. You'll definitely want to take the drums to a local shop and have them Mic'd (A measurement with a micrometer) to see if they can be turned again. If not, new drums will probably set you back around $100. The shop will not turn the drums if they are beyond a certain thickness, so you may have to be prepared to pay the additional cost for the new drums as well. Again, feel free to post any questions you might come up with, and I'll do what I can to help you.

[Psychostyle]

Honda drums are cheap :)

[kurtis469]

well ill bedoign it tommarow hope someone is on if i fuck something up lol should tho hopefully i dont

[Psychostyle]

Just make sure you get a "combi" kit (has all the replacment springs ect ect..you probably wont need star adjusters, but you may..and if you are unsure how to replace the springs ect, put the car up on jack stands, pull both wheels pff and use one side for reference while doing the opposite side

[kurtis469]

Just make sure you get a "combi" kit (has all the replacment springs ect ect..you probably wont need star adjusters, but you may..and if you are unsure how to replace the springs ect, put the car up on jack stands, pull both wheels pff and use one side for reference while doing the opposite side


thanks man ill have to do that

[beanz]

shit man who needs brakes these days..just flinestone it..lol

[odd th0mas]

a working dope-light takes higher priority than working back-brakes! lol!

...but if they grind in reverse, it means they are wore down to the rivets. you could resurface your drums for approx $8 per if they ain't scarred too bad. changing them out is pud(especially if you gots brake pliers). the brake-shoes you buy will have shitty directions inside to 'help' ya...make sure you get good ones with life-time warranty, tho. Also, you may want to rebuild or replace your wheel-cylinder while the brakes are off! they're cheap.